First Ascents


Welsford, New Brunswick

The Amphiteatre----

Rock Star 5.9/90/G
FA C. Richardson, T. Anderson, J. Watts 1996
Fifteen feet up hill of Chernobyl(chain belay station), climb crack to arrow-shape feature pointing to bulge with thin holds(crux). Follow diagonal cracks left(thrilling exposure) to ledge, then move right up though thin slot. Step left back on wall to finish. Route good for top rope or rappel with 60m rope.

Captian Fantastic 5.10/50/TR
FA C. Richardson 2001
Twenty feet up hill of Rock Star, ascend slightly over-hanging face with finger cracks and small edges to tree on ledge.


Cheekbone Corner----

Strata Factor Direct 5.10/200/m(11)
FA C. Richardson, T. Anderson 1996
Follow bolts on face up over-hanging arete. From ledge, move right on over-hang, then up to belay station on face. Continue up, then step left at bolt to vertical crack. Climb thin holds and horizontal cracks following bolts to chain anchor.

Strata Factor 5.9/200/m(1)
FA C. Richardson, T. Anderson 1996
Horizontal and vertical cracks lead to ledge, slab and tricky little over hang. Ascend dihedral and chunky area to belay ledge. Continue up dihedral(large cams useful), then at the over-hang, step left on to face. Follow large diagonal crack system to top.

Air to The Throne 5.11/200/TR
FA C. Richardson 1996
Start as for Strata Factor, then climb face left of dihedral, and through over-hang to top.

Granite Planet 5.11/200/s(11)
FA C. Richardson, T. Anderson 1996
Ascend slab and over-hang, then follow bolts on arete to belay ledge. Continue up face left of arete to gain ledge. At the last bolt, traverse right on over-hang for cheep thrills.

Psychic Hotline 5.9/200/m(5)
FA C. Richardson 1996
Climb slab as for Granite Planet, then move right through overhang. A dihedral and vertical cracks lead to belay ledge. Continue up dihedral, step right at bolt on arete, and follow bolts to top.


Minkey wall---

Good Night Gracie 5.10/80/m(2)
FA C. Richardson 1996
Climb bulge to ledge, then step left to face, and follow crack ladder right of "Warm and Sultry."

Smokiní Crack 5.8/80/G
FA C. Richardson 1996
Fat vertical cracks lead to ledge and large detached block. Follow crack system to top.


Hidden Gully(between Pyramid Wall and Simpson Wall)---

Invisible arete 5.8/80/solo
FA C. Richardson 2001
From large ledge(above and right of Pyramid Wall area), ascend arete and follow ridge left to top.

"Cuz I Can" Traverse 5.8/90/solo
FA C. Richardson 2001
Start at bottom left side of gully, traversing up diagonally right to top of cliff.

Playing Risk 5.7/40/solo
FA C. Richardson 2001
On right side of Hidden Gully, ascend left on face, directly opposite start for "Cuz I Can."


The Gallery Wall---

Border Line 5.8/250/G
FA C. Richardson 1997
Below right end of Dawn Wall, ascend fat crack, continue right of trees to finger crack, then belay from tree at ledge. Continue up right of "Light Fandango" to slab. Ascend arete on left side of over-hang. Finish at trees on top.

Instant Gratification 5.7/250/G
FA C. Richardson 1997
Black blocky section leads to finger cracks and friendly lay-back flakes. Belay from ledge at base of slab. Ascend jug-fest on mid-section of over-hang, then continue to trees on top.

Widow Maker 5.9/250/G
FA C. Richardson 1997
Ascend black slab to ledge left of over-hang. Step right onto arete, and continue straight up a few feet right of "Instant Gratification." Second pitch has a friendly vertical crack above mini-over-hang.

Cure for ADD 5.11/75/TR
FA C. Richardson 1997
Climb over-hangs right of "Widow Maker". Finish at ledge.

Painted Black 5.8/75/TR
FA C. Richardson 1997
Ascend ramp to gain black right facing features leading to ledge. Move up left to horn. Ends at rap bolts.

Pink Strip on Gray Canvas 5.8/150/G
FA C. Richardson 1997
Gain ledge, then ascend left side of dihedral to horn, and arete to belay ledge. Follow large crack system to evergreen tree, then step right, and ascend arete to top.

The Route Not Taken 5.10/150/m(1)
FA C. Richardson 1997
An obvious line a couple feet right of "Pink Stripe", over a budgle, then up a crack system. On second pitch, near the top, one bolt protects the crux(the only 5.10 move; the rest is 5.8).

Mantle Piece 5.8/150/G
FA C. Richardson 1997
Left facing features lead to funky flake at lip of bulge. A few feet right of "The route Not Taken," continue to the top.

Sparky Start Variation 5.6/40/R
FA C. Richardson 1997
Easy, though unprotected moves take you up this dihedral to the perfect crack, joining "Trundling by Moonlight."

Trundling by Moonlight 5.9/150/G
FA C. Richardson 1997
Vertical cracks on arete lead to large flake, then the "perfect crack." From belay ledge, climb crack ladder up arete to a vertical crack, then continue up blocks to top.


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